Table of Contents
- It's stopped completely
- It is not cool
- Cooling is poor
- It's noisy
- It Leaks
-
The food in the refrigerator
freezes
-
There's water
dripping inside the refrigerator
-
The refrigerator never cycles off
- The ice
maker has a problem
-
There's an ice- or
water-dispensing problem
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any
fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator
isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If
not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work,
read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that,
plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged
into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or
breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to
the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may
be a problem in one or more of these:
Wiring
Thermostat
Defrost timer
Compressor
Overload and/or relay
Unfortunately, we can't describe all of the possible problems and repair
solutions here. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may
need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
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If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some
questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on
the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or
making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may
be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we
recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator,
there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The compressor
The Thermostat
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should
work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A
refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem
in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
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Noise can come from these areas:
1.
The inside of the freezer
2.
The outside back of the refrigerator
3.
The bottom of the refrigerator
4.
The inside of the freezer
Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the
freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is
cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:
1.
If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom.
2.
If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of
the freezer.
3.
If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near
the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing
sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.
To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push
in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the
evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You
must replace it.
The outside back of the refrigerator
There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may
become noisy:
The compressor
The condenser
fan motor (if self-defrosting)
The defrost timer (if
self-defrosting)
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can
see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is
usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires
attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably
no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be
quite costly.
The condenser fan motor is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other
debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine,
sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator,
remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no
lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.
The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the
front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the
timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.
The bottom of the refrigerator
Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from
the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the
refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a
rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
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Water can leak from these areas:
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the
defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the
bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks
into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the
bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it
may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the
drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back
wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator
compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers
at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the
water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters
to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is
equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar,
while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the
opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem
is solved.
The back of the refrigerator
Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice
maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain
pan.
Here's what to do:
If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make sure the
water tubes are attached properly and are fastened tightly.
If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself, replace the
valve.
If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect for holes
or cracks, and replace the pan if necessary.
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
Water accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a
clogged drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain
will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider between
the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and cause condensation
build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this problem begins with
unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove the entire
freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in the divider.
Occasionally the insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the
problem. This can be a big job – you may want to hire a qualified appliance
repair technician.
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally
directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the
bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually
located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the
drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem,
clear the obstruction.
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door,
check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to
be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.
The freezer compartment is icing up
See the “Cooling is poor” section above.
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This is a common problem that often doesn't have a clear,
permanent solution. The first thing to check is the overall internal
refrigerator temperature. The proper temperature should be between 35
and 42 degrees. Here are some things to try:
If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the
temperature up slightly.
If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the bottom
(where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive products on a
higher shelf.
If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the
thermostat, you probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace
it, because they cannot be repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in the
sealed (refrigerant or freon) system, cold air migration (in side-by-side models) or a
defective air damper. These problems can be quite difficult to locate and
correct, we recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
Self-defrosting refrigerators dispose of the water generated
during the defrost cycle, usually via a tube or channel that directs the water
to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally
evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this Click Here:
How
a Refrigerator Works
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks
into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the
bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it
may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the
drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
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The refrigerator
never cycles off
The thermostat cycles the refrigerator on and off. The
refrigerator normally runs as long as the temperature inside the refrigerator is
higher than the set temperature. If the temperature inside the refrigerator is
cold enough and the thermostat still does not cycle off, the thermostat may be
defective. If so, you need to replace it, because it cannot be repaired. If the
thermostat is not defective, you may have a problem with the sealed
(refrigerant) system, in which case you should contact a qualified appliance
repair technician.
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The ice maker has a problem
The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section.
Please see the How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal
functioning of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check.
Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a
coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned
off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the
ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire.
If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should
be between 0-8 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice
maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat,
repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just
a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a
clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good
water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the
water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a
bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the
flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off
valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the
water inlet valve.
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There's
an ice or water-dispensing problem
The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite
complex. Many components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from
a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other
components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified
appliance repair technician for such repairs.
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Information Provide from a variety of Sources & Experience
Copyright © 2002 [AffordableAppliance.Com]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 06/21/07.