Opening the Cabinet

Unplug the washer Remove front panel by sliding a putty knife in the opening between the top and the front panel.
Locate the front panel's clips and pull out on the front panel while depressing the clips with the putty knife. Swing the top of the front panel forward and lift it off the clips on the bottom of the cabinet.
Remove the 1/4-inch sheet metal screws securing the cabinet top to the side panels.
Lift the front of the cabinet top up and pull it forward to release the tabs under the console. Note that there are wires still connecting the top to the console area. Disconnect the connector and lift the top off the washer and set it aside.

Removing the Tub Assembly

Remove the rubber suspension straps in four places at each corner of the cabinet.
Remove the clip holding the motor harness to the suspension rod.
Remove the clip holding the fill switch tube to the suspension rod.
Locate the ground wire leading up to the lower right corner of the motor and remove the screw to disconnect it.
Locate the clear plastic hose coming down the left side of the tub and disconnect it from the air pressure dome.
Locate the motor wire harness clip just above the motor
Pinch the clip fastener to release the clip and wire harness from the motor mount.
Locate the white and black motor connectors on top of the motor on both sides and then pinch them to remove.
Use a channel lock pliers to open the clamp securing the drain hose to the water pump and slide it back so that you can remove the hose.
Remove the left front suspension cylinder by prying it out of its slot with a screwdriver
Remove the left rear suspension using the same technique.
And now remove the right rear suspension. One last time - remove the right front suspension cylinder. Now you should have your suspension completely removed.
Release the tub top ring by pushing down over each of the tub hooks and pulling out on the tabs until the tub top is loose. Set it aside.
Everything has been disconnected from the tub assembly and it is now ready to be taken out.
Rock the top of the tub assembly back and slide the bottom over the bottom cabinet rail. Now the tub assembly is out of the cabinet.

Taking Tub Assembly Apart

Remove the cover on top of the agitator by prying it off with a screwdriver. Loop an old dryer belt or a rope through two of the agitator vanes and over a 2 by 4 and then down to the other two vanes as shown below. Pull up sharply on the 2 by 4 to release the agitator from its base.
Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator base to the agitator shaft. Pull the plastic agitator base off of the shaft.
Locate the large nut on the square shouldered basket spin shaft. Use the largest pliers that will fit in the basket to grip the nut and rock it back and forth to attempt to free it. Note that this nut has a left-hand thread!
If you can't break the nut loose, you will have to cut it off with a stub flat blade screwdriver or a chisel. Fortunately the metal in the nut is soft. A nut that has been cut off is shown here.
Now you can lift the basket out. The first thing you will see on the basket spin shaft is the c-ring that the basket was resting on. Try to pry the c-ring up with a screw driver. It is very fragile and most likely will break in half and you will have to buy a new one.
Under the c-ring you will find a large silver colored washer resting on the shoulder of the square spin shaft. Remove this washer and store for later installation. This concludes disassembly inside the tub.

Removing the Transmission

Stand the tub assembly upside down on the top of the tub with the motor and drive pulley on top. Loosen the four motor mount bolts using a socket wrench but don't remove them. This will allow the motor to slide in the direction of the drive pulley and thus loosen the belt. Remove the belt and set it aside.
Remove the nut from the transmission shaft in the center of the drive pulley. Remove the pulley and set it aside. Store the nut with the pulley.
Cut the tie wrap securing the overflow tube to the drive assembly frame.
Remove the four bolts securing the drive assembly to the transmission spin brake housing.
Remove the four bolts at the bottom of each leg of the drive assembly support structure where it attaches to the tub.
Now you can lift the drive assembly off the tub. Flip it over and make sure that the spin brake surface is clean.
Now the transmission is setting all by itself on the bottom of the tub. The old transmission that I was replacing had a white bar code sticker on the gear housing. This implies that a special bearing replacement tool and kit could have been purchased to fix the failed spin brake. I will save this transmission for a future project. Note how the spin brake lining is built into the housing. The new transmission has a green bar code sticker on it and the spin brake cannot be repaired on it. Lift the old transmission straight up and slide it out of the tub seal. Set it aside to be discarded.
Position a flat blade screw driver down the inside of the tub seal to rest on the inner ring. Tap the screw driver with a hammer to push the seal out of the bottom of the tub. This concludes disassembly.

Installing the New Transmission

The new transmission kit (WH38X10002) comes with a new tub seal in a bag wired to the spin brake housing. Note that the new transmission has a spin brake friction ring wired to the housing. Leave the wires in place for now.
Position the tub upside down and slide the new transmission shaft down into the hole in the bottom of the tub. Remove the plastic bag
Holding the new seal from the wire but leave the wire in place. Place the drive support platform over the transmission spin brake housing and line up the two larger holes with the ferrules in the spin brake friction ring. Make sure the 4 transmission bolt holes line up with the spin brake housing and start the bolts finger tight.
Once the 4 bolts have been started, clip the two wires and remove them. Tighten the 4 bolts. The two alignment ferrules should be flush now as shown to the right.
Line up the 4 legs of the drive platform with the bolt holes in the tub. Install the bolts and tighten.
Place the drive pulley on the transmission shaft and put the belt back around the motor pulley and the drive pulley. Tighten the nut holding the drive pulley in place.
Tighten the belt by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the motor and the platform to pry the motor away from the drive pulley while tightening the motor mount bolts.
Swing the overflow tub back up alongside a platform leg and secure it with a plastic wire tie. Flip the tub assembly over right side up to make it ready for installing the spin basket

Installing Spin Basket

If the spin basket c-ring and hub nut were messed up in disassembly, you need to pick up some new ones. The c-ring (split ring) part number is WH2X1195 and the hub nut part number is WH2X1193. This is a picture of the transmission shaft extending into the bottom of the tub without the seal in place.
Remove any grease on the outer ring of the tub seal and slide it down over the basket spin shaft. Press the new seal into the plastic bore around the shaft until the top of the seal is flush with the top of the seal bore. Make sure that it is level all the way around and fully seated.
The shoulder ring, the split ring or c-ring and the hub nut will be replaced in this sequence from left to right.
First the shoulder ring.
Then the split ring.
Position the spin basket down over the shaft and hand tighten the nut by turning it counter clockwise.
Tighten the nut with a large pliers.
Position the agitator base over the agitator shaft and tighten the bolt. Position the agitator over the base and push down until the agitator snaps onto the base. Replace the agitator cap. Now you are ready to put the tub assembly back into the washer cabinet.

Installing Tub Assembly

This procedure will help you get the tub assembly back into the cabinet. Slide the tub assembly into the bottom of the cabinet with the motor down
. Tip the tub assembly up.
Position the tub ring on top of the tub and align it with the bulge for the tub overflow tube. Snap the ring tabs down over the hooks on the tub until the tub top is fully secured.
The tub assembly is now ready to be attached to the cabinet interfaces.
Start getting the tub back onto the suspension; first the left rear.
Snap the right rear suspension back on. Install the front suspension; first the left and then the right.
Reattach the air dome hose and clip it to the suspension rod.
Reattach the four rubber straps from each corner of the cabinet to the tub assembly.
Bring the motor harness wires down to the motor and snap the harness clip back into the motor mount.
Reconnect the two motor connectors.
Reconnect the motor ground wire.
Reattach the tub drain hose to the water pump. This concludes the reassembly of the tub assembly into the cabinet.

Closing the Cabinet

This procedure will get the cabinet buttoned up for the final assembly. Rest the cabinet top close enough to its final location so that the wires will reach to reconnect the lid switch connector.
Slide the two halves of the connector together.
Now position the tabs on the back of the cabinet top into the slots under the control console and push back until the brackets on the front edge of the cabinet are flush with the front surface of the side panels. Replace the screw for each side.
Position the bottom of the front panel over the clips on the bottom and then swing the top of the panel back until the top clips snap into place. This concludes the reassembly of the cabinet. Move the washer to its normal location and test for proper operation

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