Direct Drive Motor Coupler
The motor to transmission coupler provides for vibration isolation and
provides some protection to the motor in the event the transmission locks up.
If you lay the washer down on the front of the cabinet the coupler can be seen
from the bottom as follows:
I have never seen a transmission lock up but I have seen the holes get
enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and
transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal
between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time
the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed
coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs
and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs have broken off the
couplers (old coupler design) or the coupler has broken at the shaft (new
coupler) and you need a new coupler kit.
New Part Number: 285743 or the Newest: 285753
To order a drive coupling click here: Your
cost is 13.95 + 5.95 shipping. Order
The following picture shows the three components of the old coupler:
transmission coupler, rubber isolator and the motor coupler. Note that the
transmission coupler slides onto the transmission shaft. The rubber isolator
is sandwiched between the couplers. The motor coupler slides onto the motor
The following picture shows the three older style coupler components laid
out to show the shaft and rubber isolator holes. Note that the rubber isolator
has six holes to accommodate the couplers - each with three studs.
The following picture shows the new improved coupler. On first look, the
plastic studs have a larger cross section which should help prevent the studs
from cutting through the rubber isolator. Also note that there is not as much
plastic material surrounding the shaft hole.
The new coupler occasionally breaks at the motor shaft, causing the coupler
to slip around the shaft and make a loud noise like a playing card slapping in
bicycle spokes. The following picture shows a new style coupler that failed in
Procedures for Replacing the Motor Coupler
- MAKE SURE THE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED
- Remove the two screws down in front on both sides of the control console
with a Philips screwdriver. On the newer washers you may have to remove a
plastic trim piece on both ends of the control console to get at the screws.
If the screws are rusted you may have to coax them out with a flat blade
screwdriver behind the screw head while turning counterclockwise with a
- Pull the control console forward and up to release it and then roll it
back against the wall around its hinges.
- Locate the 2-wire harness with the connector that plugs into the top of
the cabinet. The wires lead to the lid switch. Disconnect this connector by
depressing its locking tab and pulling up.
- Locate the two cabinet clips in each back corner. Place a flat blade
screwdriver behind the front curled up edge of the clip and push back on the
handle to release the clip.
- Repeat with the other clip. Remove the clips from the back panel. The
cabinet is free now unless you have dispensers. The hoses for dispensers are
under a little hose cover in the left hand corner. Label the hoses from left
to right and slide the hose clips back. Slide the hoses off the plastic
connector and let them drop down. The cabinet is now free.
- Roll the cabinet forward to release it in back. Pull the cabinet up off
the front clips and clear of the washer. Set it aside and out of the way.
- Now you have access to everything that was inside the cabinet. Locate
the water pump down in front and pry its two clips off with a flat-blade
- Pull forward on the pump to slide it off the motor shaft. Don't
disconnect the hoses but fold the pump and hoses out of the way and tie them
off to the left.
- Remove the motor electrical connector from the right side of the front
of the motor. If your motor has a capacitor, you will need to pull the two
connectors off it and disconnect another 2-wire connector from the harness.
- Use a nut driver to remove the two front screws holding the motor straps
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the clamps off the motor. Remove the
bottom clamp first. Slide one hand under the motor and release the top
clamp. The motor is free and you can slide it out. The motor shield will
come out with the motor. There are four rubber grommets between each of the
motor studs and the motor mounting plate. Remove the grommets for safe
- Slide a large screwdriver under the white plastic coupler and pry it off
the motor shaft. Use the same technique to remove the other coupler from the
- Press new couplers onto the motor and transmission. Don't use a hammer
or you may damage the bearings. A plastic screwdriver handle works fine to
drive the coupler onto the transmission shaft. Roll the motor over and
position the front shaft on the floor before you drive the coupler on the
other end of the shaft. This will protect the motor bearings.
- Put the black rubber isolator on the transmission coupler by lining up
the isolator holes with the three studs
- Put the motor plate on the bottom of the motor and secure it with the
two grommets on the bottom. Put the rubber grommets on the motor studs with
the widest end facing the motor.
- Slide the motor coupler studs into the rubber isolator by rotating the
other end of the motor shaft to help align them. At the same time, guide the
rubber grommets into the four holes in the mounting plate. Make sure that
the motor is positioned so that the electrical connector in front is pointed
to the right. When everything is in place, snap the motor clamps down on the
motor and replace the screws that secure them. Replace the motor connectors.
- Fold the water pump back in front of the motor and onto the front motor
shaft. Snap the pump straps back in place.
- Replacing the cabinet is not quite as easy as removing it but observing
how the cabinet interfaces with washer frame will speed this process up. The
bottom edge of the cabinet front slides under the front frame crossbar and
the cabinet sides rest on top of the side frame. Two guide posts, located on
each side frame, slide into corresponding slots in the sides of the cabinet
to align the cabinet with the frame.
- Align the washer back with the back edges of the cabinet so that the
plastic strips are flush from top to bottom.
- If you had dispenser hoses, they need to be replaced now. Open the
washer lid and the hose cover to find the hoses and reconnect them to the
plastic hose connector. Compress the hose clamps with a pliers and slide the
clamps up to the ends of the hoses. Now roll the cabinet back in place
against the back panel and make sure that back panel is against the back of
the cabinet from top to bottom.
- Snap the cabinet clips into place.
- Reinstall the cabinet connector.
- Roll the control console down around its hinges and drop the end cap
tabs into the holes in the cabinet top and slide it back to lock it into
place. Replace the two screws. Replace any plastic trim caps.
- Plug the washer back in and verify proper operation.